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Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Me bouldering with fresh Tattoo
Im still in Qld working not much news to report. I hurt my finger two weeks ago now and thats starting to get better now. On the weekend we stumbled upon this little bouldering area on the Gold Coast so we had a little climb. Hopefully ill be heading home soon to start training.
Friday, October 31, 2008
Working in QLD
I'm still in QLD working. I've been up here for nearly 3 months now saving money up for my trip. Me and Teegan have booked our tickets for our next trip and I'm psyched. We leave early January for an 8 month climbing trip. First stop is USA to boulder for just under two months and then we will be heading to Europe where we hope to rent a place in Innsbruck (Austria), after 5 months in Europe we are heading to South Africa to sample the Rock lands. Cant wait its gonna be mega.
So for now its just Training Training Training with a bit of work chucked in. Ill be back in Sydney in another few weeks to do some more training/working before we hit the road.
See ya out there amigo's
Monday, August 4, 2008
Me doing Logical Progression V13 FA. photo Duncan Brown
I have not written for a while but I have been climbing lots. I have been to Nowra for a few days and I climbed some routes that I have always wanted to climb but never got around to doing. They include Still Life With A Chalk Bag (2nd pitch) grade 25/26, Beef Miester grade 32 and a flash of Vehicle Of Hate grade 28. I have also been Bouldering in Bungonia Gorge with a good crew of guys and managed to do a new problem called Steak and chips basically a one move V11. I have been bouldering in Sydney as well and managed to get up a few new lines. On the weekend I went to Crumbly and I managed to do th FA of the extension to Abacus. The extension adds five more moves and ends high up on a jug I called the new boulder Logical Progression and graded it V13/8B. After a quick rest I did the FA of another new line. The other new line does another Existing problem Called Flegm but finishes at the same point as Logical Progression I also graded it V13/8B and called it Progressive Aggression. My mate Ren got both the new boulders on Video so ill try and get them up here soon.
Saturday, July 12, 2008
The cold weather is finally here and it was time to start hitting Nowra so on the weekend i headed down to Nowra with Sam berry and Nathan Harowell to try a project. I wanted to try the Extension to a existing rout called Crenshaw boulevard 30/31 I had worked out the moves the week before and i hoped to climb it this weekend and i was lucky enough to do just that so now the route goes all the way to the top of the cliff. I called the new route Hats And Hoods and graded it 33/8c. on the same weekend in Nowra there was an event called 24 hours of power heres the write up from the event
The following txt is from www.nowrarocks.blogspot.com
The following txt is from www.nowrarocks.blogspot.com
It was hard to find a car park at Thompson's Point last weekend and the walls were packed with climbers enjoying the stone. Over at the Creek, the South Central car park was packed until well after dark on Saturday as climbers squeezed in that last route of the day. 24 Hours of Power at Nowra was conceived as a way get climbers on the rock, meeting, talking, sharing and building the sense of community that is a wonderful aspect of our sport. The competitive part of the weekend was a sideline to the real business of hanging out, but it did provide many exciting and amusing moments.
The overall points winner was Jan Zbranek whose twenty routes included ascents of Dungeon Master 31, Pimp Behind the Wheels 30, a few 29s and 28s and a stack of routes in the mid 20s. In second place and best Aussie effort was Matt Adams who managed to haul himself up Frosty 29, Ain't No Sunshine 28 and plethora of other classics. Third place went to renaissance man Graham Fairbairn and fourth place to Andi Richardson who managed his 20 routes in a massive one day effort on Saturday (he had to work Sunday) fueled by energy gels and sports drinks. Andi's day culminated in an inspired ascent at 7:30 pm of Come Poo with Me 24 at South Central with his headtorch on and his arms cramping badly! Best Female in the points category was Phoebe (sorry Phoebe, I didn't get your surname!)
In the volume competition Malin Hannu was clear winner in the female division climbing 34 routes, visiting 3 crags, and managing to get lost on the tourist track at Hospital Rocks on Saturday night! The volume male winner was Marcus Loane who bounced out of his car at 6 am on Saturday morning with his harness already on, teamed up with Malin and didn't stop all weekend. Marcus climbed 42 routes, cut new tracks (accidently) at The Lair and still managed to fit in few games of bowling on Saturday night!
In the juniors, Brittany Fletcher took out the female event doing nearly as many routes over the weekend as she has done on rock before in her life! Nick Wagland took home the cake for the best junior male after the stout effort of catching the train down from Coffs Harbour to attend!
A cake was awarded to Jason Piper and Matt Pascoe for the strongest start. These hardcore, psyched lads cranked out Cowboy Junkies 25 by headtorch at 6 am on Saturday to start and were the last ones in on Sunday arvo as they tried to squeeze one more route in!
The cake for 'living up to the routes name' went to Luke Geelan who was on his last route of the day on Sunday, long after his arms had given up. At the top of Fist Full of Steel, with the rope out and nothing left in the tank he snatched the chain and avoided the death plummet. Better to live to fight another day!
The trivia competition was won by Graham Fairbairn and Andrew Bull who should know a thing or two about Nowra climbing history!
Another highlight of the weekend were Wendy Walker making the first ascent of Baby Conehead, a new three star 21 at The Hood, to the right of Girls In the Hood. This route now holds the Nowra record for having the most repeats in its first day, receiving 10 ascents! As the name suggests it's just like Coneheads only littler and easier! It climbs an over hung corner before launching out onto a steep face!!
Unable to participate in the 24 Hours of Power competition due to time constraints, but still keen to be part of the action, Chris Webb-Parsons made it down on the Saturday and made the first ascent of what is now the hardest route at South Central, and Nowra's first 33 (although we do have a 34)! Hats and Hoods is an extension to Crenshaw Boulevard adding a burly boulder on top of this already solid route.
Chris Wallace (Wobblebunns) had what he has declared to be his proudest sporting moment ever when he decimated the field in the old boys ten pin bowling session, not once, but twice. In a flawless display he decided to try some spin and reaped the rewards!
Carlie and I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who came to Nowra last weekend and climbed, hung out, talked, encouraged and generally added to the fantastic atmosphere at the crags. Thanks to all the climbers who participated in this fun style of competition in the light-hearted way in which it was intended. A huge thank you to Big John for donating the sausages and rolls and manning the BBQ on Sunday evening to make sure the climbers were well fed afterwards. We learnt a lot and look forward to doing it again next year in new improved way!
Saturday, June 28, 2008
After climbing indoors at the comp on the weekend it was time to get outdoors and climb. I went to see my mate Ben Cossey for breakfast and some general chit chat about Climbing Rocks, Guitar playing and Life. It was then time to stop talking about Climbing Rocks and actually go and do it. So I went to Mini HaHa for a wee boulder. I wanted to try a problem called Missing Sync 8A+/V12. The problem is sooo rad it was first climbed by the ever strong Garth Miller a few years ago and it has what I believe to be some of the coolest and best moves and holds in the Blue Mountains. I had tried the problem before but I had never tried the boulder when the conditions were good and today although the sun was still on the wall the holds felt better than I had ever felt them before and after a while trying to figure out how to climb this amazing problem I had the last hold in my hand and was a very happy chapy.